Day 19 … exploring on foot and then with a guide

Our first full day on Rapa Nui dawned with slightly overcast skies (and a seemingly later sunrise) but still a pleasant day ahead of us. With no need to rush off today, as our only tour for today was a 3pm pick up, we had the chance for a more leisurely start to our day.

Breakfast was delivered to our room at around 8am … a beautiful spread of meats and cheese, warm rolls (Chilean style), cornflakes, yoghurt, fruit, biscuits, juice and a plunger of fresh coffee. We sat on our verandah watching the morning unfold whilst eating our breakfast and being serenaded by the roosters that roam freely on the island (and on our verandah).

 

Then, with the morning ahead of us we had the chance to explore. Ian had diligently mapped out a walking route for us to take in some of the highlights of the centre of town. Maitu had told us to visit the church if we could because it is worth it, so it was on our list.

Each road on the island has a street sign that is carved out of wood. Some depict real people, some are mythical figures and some are more conceptual. They are very beautiful and detailed. I’m not sure who the artists were who carved them but they are definitely worth a couple of photos. There is also street art on buildings, a gazillion dogs (very friendly) and very few footpaths.

 

We arrived at the Catholic Church part way through Sunday service. Maitu had told us that the mass is partly in Spanish and partly in Rapa Nui and that the songs are all in Rapa Nui. It was glorious … the music, led by two people wearing traditional headdress, lifted the voices of the congregation. Even in Spanish you knew when the priest was reaching the most important message of his sermon. The church was packed … Ian estimates about 200 (which for an island of 8000 is pretty good), plus about 50 goggling tourists (us included). After the service we had the chance to look more closely at the church itself, where the stained glass windows depicted the stations of the cross, but also incorporated the Rapa Nui legends. The statues carved in wood also represented traditional Christian figures but with symbols of Rapa Nui intertwined. It was a lovely way to start the day.

We then wandered around the streets, through the local supermercados (supermarkets), past small street smalls and local shops. We passed food stores selling empanadas, donuts and pastries. Every time we passed a dog it followed us with its tail wagging hopping for a pat … one even carried a massive stick!

The roads are rough (yep, even worse than Victoria … I know it’s hard to believe) and if there was a footpath it too had seen better days. Any number and type of vehicles passed us at different stages … from motorbikes, bicycles, cars - from large utes to small beat up, rusted out vehicles, buses and lots of people walking.

We climbed to a viewing point that overlooked the “port” … not really a port but more of a small harbour. Here the tender boats retrieve everything that arrives by larger boats back to the island. Maitu told us that last year the weather was so bad that the tender boats couldn’t go out to the cargo ship and so supplies were limited. Medicine was running out, dog and cat food became scarce, fresh fruit and vegetables were also limited. When the tenders could finally go out to retrieve the supplies a lot had rotted in the humidity.

 

We then walked along the waterfront … past petroglyphs and Moai. When you think of Easter Island you tend to think that there are just a few Moai all lined up next to each other on the shore. What you find instead is Moai scattered across the island … in a park, by the sea, on their own or in groups. It seems quite ridiculous that these ancient statues are just there … in the middle of everyday life with small rocks placed around them to create a barrier that everyone obeys and respects. 

Finally … we headed back towards the town, passing the bathing pools, soccer training, and the marina for the dive boats. We were now in search of some lunch. We got caught in a downpour … typical tropical storm where the rain pelts down and two minutes later the sun is shining. We ate at a local street vendor sharing a dish of rice and pork with onions and tomatoes in the most delicious sauce with a side salad and finished off our meal with Açai ice cream. 

And as we wandered back to our accomodation to get ready for our afternoon tour we stopped to wander the cemetery. Now we are known to wander cemeteries, and we indeed back on to one at home, but this one has to be one of the most unique we have seen. Maitu told us yesterday that the rule is the better decorated the grave the more loved and respected the person. So this cemetery was awash with flowers (both real and artificial), spinning wheels, Christmas lights, coloured rocks, and elegantly carved wooden statues. The mass of yellow flowers makes it a beautiful sight and reminds you that even in death … you are there and not forgotten.

 

Back at our accomodation … chance to sit for a little and make a coffee (instant coffee sadly but what can you do) and prepare for this afternoon. Need to re-apply the sunscreen and insect repellent (there is dengue fever here … even though I am yet to see a mosquito I am not risking it).

We headed out to meet our tour ... Simon (our guide) and Mote (our driver) in a bus. We were the first pick up so snagged the single window seats. We then did the rounds of hotels picking up others ... 4 Spanish speaking (not sure where from), a couple from the UK and 6 from the US (4 women travelling together and then a pair of women travelling together). Once we were all onboard we headed off on the adventure. 

Now ... here is Ian

First stop on the tour was at Puna Pau. This is the red scoria quarry that was used in construction of the Moai in the "modern" period. The modern Moai rulers wore their long hair tied in a top-knot or man-bun, so a scoria representation of hair is a distinctive feature of these Moia (as are the coral eyes and dark pupils). Big red balls of scoria (2m diameter) were mined at Puna Pau and rolled to the site of the Moai for final carving.

 

Second stop the iconic Ahu Akivi, where 7 Moai are lined up on their platform together. What makes this group different from other Moai on the island is that they face the sea, not inland. This group is believed to have had an astronomical purpose, facing the sunset position of the equinox. They were also the first Moai to be restored by American archaeologist William Mulloy, now regarded by islanders as one of the most significant persons in their modern history. We walked all the way around their large platform to see them from all angles - very special. Aussies - spot the many eucalypt trees in the background.

 

 

Last stop was Ahu Tahai - that is, the Moai outside our accommodation (we opted not to catch the minibus 20m to our front gate, walking instead). Ahu Tahai is in fact seven Moai on 3 platforms, only one of which is actually Tahai. 5 are from the pre-classical, Moai Tahai from the classical and Moai Kotoriku from the modern - he's the one with the man-bun that looks like a hat and the distinctive eyes. This area was a bit like a university where knowledge was passed down to young scholars. It also has some astronomical features, the foundation stones of the elders house, and some fallen bits of Moai that were never finished or erected. Apart from Simon our guide having to shoo members of our group away from sitting/lying on clearly signposted protected areas it was a good time.

 

Tonight we are planning on a picnic overlooking Tahai and out to the Pacific Ocean to watch the sunset. We have food leftover from our breakfast ... which will become our dinner. Tomorrow we have a full day tour taking us to more locations with more history (and we suspect many of the group from today will be back with us tomorrow).

Steps ...15,547 (but more to come)

Kms ... 11.89

Photos ...   447 plus 58 from Ian

I am off for a shower now to get rid of my Rapa Nui tan!