Day 8 … exploring BA on bike

Today we had a half day private tour which filled me with a little dread and apprehension, but also with a little bit of excitement. We were booked on a bike tour of BA which would end with wine and cheese. We didn’t need to be ready until 10 am so a lazy start for me (only a second load of washing to do) whilst Ian was out of bed early to do a few hours work.

After our breakfast we headed to reception to wait for our pick up. About 10 minutes past 10 our guide Belu arrived in a vehicle driven by Laudero which had a trailer with our bikes on it. We had paid extra so that I could have an ebike but Ian was a big boy and had a regular bike. Laudero got us organised … seat height, helmet, how to operate the e-bike, we were given a bottle of water and then we were off.

The itinerary that we were meant to go on was slightly changed but it really didn’t matter because touring a city on a bike is so different than being on foot or in a car. Once we headed off we took the back streets of San Telmo, which was a trial for me to begin with as the roads are cobbled and then once we headed towards the city we moved onto exceptionally narrow bike paths that were two way … and the side we had to ride on slopes into the gutter. So it took me a little while to get confident that I wasn’t going to end up in the gutter!

The ride took us on bike paths, roads, major avenues, around and to parks and from one end of the city to another. At one point we had to cross the wide Avenue 9 de Julio … the one with the 16 car lanes and the 6 central bus lanes. It was pedal, pedal, pedal so that you didn’t get stuck in the middle if the lights changed.

Our tour turned out to be a wine tour with the stops relating in some way to the wine industry of Argentina. Belu was a font of knowledge and allowed us to stop along the way to snap photos (not on the roads though … only at traffic lights or when we were at a park). We revisited a few places we had seen yesterday but with the lens of the wine industry Belu was able to point out new things to us like other theatres, a Jewish temple, and many embassies as we entered Palermo towards the end of our ride.

Our first official stop was back at Teatro Colon (the opera house) where Belu pointed out the friezes above the windows that featured Bacchus, the god of wine, with cherubs surrounded by vine leaves. Belu told us about an underground building beneath the opera house which is where they make all the costumes, shoes, wigs, props, stage settings. She said that it is like a labyrinth beneath the city and that it stretches several blocks in either direction.

She pointed out a building which we had seen yesterday but today we learnt that it had originally been a private home but the bulk of it had been demolished to make way for a multi storey building. The architect was keen to keep the corner of the building with its turret and the new building that sits behind is made of mirrors to reflect the old building. A thoughtful way to acknowledge the old.

Off on our bikes again we headed to Plazoletta Carlos Pellegrini in the area of Retiro. This small, very green park is surrounded by palatial residence and high end apartments. In the centre is a statue honouring Carlos Pellegrini, a president of Argentina 1890-1892. He is well respected as he was instrumental in cleaning up the finances of the country, establishing the first bank and promoting education. The small plaza is also the location of the Jockey Club, the Brazilian Embassy and the French Embassy.

We then rode in to Recoleta where we had been yesterday with Sandra, but again Belu talked about the wine industry, the F1 racing industry (they used to sit at the coffee shop on the corner waiting for the mechanics to fix their cars). She read to us a beautiful poem written by an Argentinian poet … all about wine (basically … wine is good!).

We then headed down the hill, past the Basilica Nuestra Senora del Pilar which was built in 1732. It was the second oldest Spanish colonial church, and is now a museum for religious art. We rode through Plazoleta Ramon J Carcona, past the Law School, to Floralis Generica. This massive sculpture of a tulip (that opens during the daylight hours and closes at night) was donated to the city by the Argentine architect Eduardo Catalona. It is beautiful … I would love to see it closed but we won’t be going past it at night.

Back on our bikes we headed to Palermo Chico which is a very affluent area of town. It is home to celebrities, athletes, diplomats and millionaires. It has beautiful tree lined streets with grand houses and embassies behind tall imposing fences or hedges (one was a Jasmine hedge in full bloom … it was a glorious heady scent to ride past). We stopped at the Instituto Nacional Sanmartiniano which is a research centre for studying the life of General Jose San Martin (the liberator of Chile, Peru and Argentina).

By this stage of the ride I have my cycling feet and balance so I have my phone in hand and am happily snapping photos of gorgeous buildings, flowering plants, embassies, gardens. We passed the Latin America Museum of Art, the Selena Cafe (where they had cows they would milk for the milk in your coffee … not pasteurised … they don’t do that now), passed a park where dog walkers were walking dogs or exercising dogs (some had up to 10 dogs), passing more statues and monuments where Belu would shout out what we were seeing and I snapped a photo (occasionally we would stop for a better photo opportunity). We passed the Eco Parc (formerly the zoo) which is now a conservation park and we were able to spot a giraffe!

Our final destination was almost in sight when we spotted the Palermo sign. This part of BA is very eclectic and bohemian with lots of markets, street art, cafes and rambling streets. Thankfully today was not market day or I do believe I would have crashed if I had to navigate a crowd.

Ian here. Vinoteca Sommelier en Bicicleta was pretty much what it sounds like - wine and bikes. We parked our bikes outside (with several others) and stepped into what is (for us) another world. A fully blown wine tasting in a little shop with bottles of wine on every wall from floor to ceiling. Our table had 14 glasses lined up for us, 6 wine glasses on each side and one small water glass each. Now anyone who knows me knows that I don't drink alcohol. The sommelier looked taken aback by this admission, doubting me, and even poured a small serve of a golden wine into my first glass. No, no. Serious. No wine for me. Today Jacqui is doing all the heavy lifting. (J here … sad but true … someone had to take one for the team!)

So we each got our own charcuterie board with serves of 3 meats, 3 cheeses, dried fruit and nuts. And I got a glass of water. Jacqui ... she got one glass of the golden wine and 5 glasses of Argentine malbec, all beautifully lined up in a deliberate order as he took us through the character and flavour of each one.

The golden wine was made from grapes from San Jeanette, which was Jacqui's beloved mother's name, so we started with a few tears. And then got down to the business of tasting ... sampling ... not drinking. By this time our man had returned to me with a small carafe of organic grape juice (Verjus) which I have to say was very subtle and smooth. Until he got me to taste the same drink without the water and sugars in my carafe version. Erk ... choke ... splutter ... pttt pttt. Not nice!

Meanwhile we chatted as Jacqui worked her way down the line. Joined by Belu who told us all about her journey to becoming a wine and cycling guide. (I don't remember that option being mentioned at Careers Day). It was a very pleasant hour - Jacqui might say mellow, and she has become a fan of malbec. An unusual way to finish a bike ride, but a unique memory.

Our itinerary said we had a transfer back to the hotel, but that fell through the cracks somewhere. So with Belu's help we hailed a cab in central Palermo and sent the driver in the direction of Palacio Libertad (you should have known we weren't going back to the hotel just yet). 30 minutes later there we were, at the old Post Office which was closed when we passed yesterday.

Wandered around there for a bit, thrilled by the Hall of Provinces, and bewildered by the huge steel blob built into the centre of the building which is a performance theatre. Then a stroll past Casa Rosada and down Ave Paseo Colon. We saw some lovely buildings, beautiful parks, local markets and a heart-warming school pick-up scene where young children and parents were joyfully reuniting at the end of the day.

Two final stops. One at the ice cream/gelati shop around the corner from hotel. Eating in to sample the atmosphere. Two the rooftop pool area at our hotel with great views over San Telmo and off to the city landmarks. Another wonderful day.

On our way out to dinner we took a small detour to a nearby church. San Pedro Gonzalez is the second oldest church in BA, dating back to 1734. It was closing - literally - as we walked up to the door but the man there said "Un momento", so in 30 seconds Jacqui snapped some photos while I picked my jaw up. Exquisite.

Tonight's dinner was an experience. We walked into a nearby restaurant, the only customers, and Mariano the waiter asked what we wanted and were we hungry. We umm-ed and said "just a little", so he recommended an entree and a main to share. So we let him choose a traditional Argentine meal. Matambre - cold rolled meat with carrot herbs and egg, served with olives. Bread with an onion, pepper and oil side. 400g charred steak and green salad and chimichurri. Neither of us would ever have ordered those dishes but we had a lovely meal as the famous 1920s Tango Singer Carlos Gardel serenaded us in the background (and Gladiator 2 rolled on a TV screen). Really cheap, even with drinks, so Mariano got an extra big tip.