Day 6 ... what's new Buenos Aires

Today we said farewell to the beautiful Falls of Iguassu. Without a doubt they are the most beautiful falls I have ever seen. We can now tick off our list the big 3 of falls ... Iguassu, Niagara and Victoria. For me Iguassu is No.1, followed by Niagara. I know Ian would place Victoria second but then he has seen them in full flow whereas I saw them after a low rain year.

Early mark today as we had a a 7am pick up from our hotel to take us to the airport. We were at reception, checked out, boxed breakfast collected and waiting at 6.50 but our transport did not arrive until almost 7.20 by which point my stress and anxiety were escalating ... didn't help that I had fallen asleep before I had taken my medication last night!

We arrived at the airport at 7.45 and the check in process was zipping along for the first 30 or so check ins and then ground to a snail’s pace. We were called forward eventually and then for some reason we were handballed off to another agent. Finally checked in, seated separately  ... me in row 21 (of a 22 seat plane) and Ian in row 3 (just behind business class). We quickly rushed through security (thank goodness it was a domestic flight) and joined the queue to board. 

My flight was a comedy of errors. I was seated next to a couple who spent the first 45 minutes having what I imagine was a full on domestic dispute (in Spanish but with the amount of gesticulating and wide eyes from the gentleman and the head downcast by the woman, I can only imagine they were not sharing love notes), there was chewing gum under the armrest of my seat so I have chewing gum stuck all over my pants,  the man in front of me whacked his chair into full recline even before take off and kept it reclined for the duration (thankfully I was holding my ipad) and finally, the vent for the air-conditioning above my head didn't work (and for those who know me well ... this was diabolical). Oh ... and my headphones had no charge!The only bonus ... I had a window seat so was able to see a final glimpse of the falls as we took off, to watch the river as we flew along the border of Brazil and then Uruguay.

We landed safely, disembarked, boarded the bus for a 1 minute ride to the terminal. Luggage collected, we exited and met up with our driver Felix who would take us in to our hotel. Arriving at the Anslemo Curio by Hilton, our home for the next 3 nights, we were hopeful that we may be able to drop our luggage as it was just after 12.00pm and we were not meeting our guide Rodrigo until 2.00pm. Thankfully the lovely reception staff informed us that our room was ready and that we would be able to check straight in.

So, into the room, luggage dumped, a chance to quickly refresh before we headed out to explore our neighbourhood. Our hotel is in San Telmo, one of the oldest and most picturesque parts of Buenos Aires. We were given a walking map by our lovely check in lady so wandered the area, getting acquainted with our surroundings, stopping for a bite to eat in the market and for me to taste all the Dulce de Leche (yummy caramel ... in all flavours ... plain, chocolate, mint, coffee, strawberry and Baileys).

Then back to our room to get ready for the afternoon. Our original itinerary had this as a free afternoon and we asked if it could be filled with an activity of some sort. What we got was a visit to Tigre, about 40 kms north of BA.

As we drove through the main streets of Buenos Aires, Rodrigo provided us with excellent commentary about BA. He told us the main avenue is the widest avenue in the world with 16 lanes and a central bus lane. We passed the Obelisk built in 1936 to commemorate the quadricentennial of the foundation of the first city. The Obelisk stands in Republic Square which used to be a bustling place but so many places closed down and never reopened after Covid. He told us that 4 million live in the city of BA, with a further 16 million in the surrounding suburbs and provinces. He also told us that it is illegal to sell alcohol from 6pm the night before an election ...  and not allowed to start selling it again until the polls close and that there is no alcohol at a football match. It is 400+ km away to the nearest beach because BA is actually at the mouth of the river ... so there are no beaches. And finally ... the motto for Argentina - Tango, football and steak ... is our inheritance!

Along the way to Tigre Rodrigo got Felix to take the scenic route ... past the older, colonial neighbourhoods where the residents employ their own security to keep the area safe. Beautiful houses, massive houses, some gated, some the older Spanish style, some modern. All were amazing in the tree lined streets.

We had time to visit a cathedral that was built in the 1800s. San Isidro Cathedral is built in a neo-gothic style with a soaring spire, intricate tile work on the floor, beautiful stained glass windows and an exquisitely carved marble baptismal font.

From the cathedral we walked along some of the side streets, again past beautiful houses to a lookout in a park. There were views back to the river, of paragliding and the city off in the distance. We then headed back to the car to continue our journey to Tigre.

Ian here … The Tigre Delta is an interesting area, islands in the river system with no roads. No cars, no bridges. Everything moves by boat. You go in and out by boat. There are supermarket boats, doctor/dentist/paediatrician boats, rubbish collection boats, ice cream boats in summer (think Mr Whippy), and even boats to take people to the polls on election day.

Our 90-minute boat trip started at 4pm in Tigre. Rodrigo had us on the smaller of the two boats as it can get into the narrower waterways. Out past the large amusement park by the river, past rowing clubs and marinas, rusting iron hulks abandoned by the river's edge. Then left into the delta.

At points the river is 200m wide, but it begins to narrow. The wash of our boat creates wave patterns racing along the blocks and plants by the edge. A single rower almost tips in the large boat's wake. As it proceeds up a large arm of the river we turn off into another world.

There are houses by the river. Some residential, some weekenders. Each has a jetty of sorts, small boats are winched 2-3m above water level. Some look nice, some not so much. House prices range from $50-200k. But add in the portage costs and the faraway lifestyle costs a bit. There are hotel and resort complexes too, nicer manicured gardens but still pretty basic.

We snaked our way through the delta, looking from one side to the other. Until all of us standing at the open rear deck of the boat were shoo-ed inside. The water level in some spots is low and the rear propellers were churning in the mud. Oops. Shouldn't have had that burger for lunch.

Eventually we left the delta and rejoined the main river with a quick trip back to the dock. Felix had us on the freeway in no time and in what seemed only minutes (actually 50) we were back in San Telmo. Goodbye and thanks to Rodrigo for a fabulous afternoon.

A quick bag drop and off to Mercado de San Telmo for dinner. Many market stalls were closed by 6.30 but El Hornero is a little empanada eatery where we all (including Platy and Kooky) sat at the bench and ordered empanadas and drinks. Carne (meat), carne fritte (fried meat), onion and cheese, and Roquefort and cheese. Juicy meat, gooey cheese, tasty gravy and veg, sweet caramelised onions. With Chardonnay and 7-Up to wash it all down. Y-U-M.

 

 

 

Next stop dessert at a gelati shop across from our square. Two heaped cups, including Jacqui's new favourite Dulce de Leche (sweet caramel). We sat in Plaza Dorrego and ate our dessert as the music played, people chatted and shared drinks at their tables, and the lovers walked by or whispered in quiet corners.

 

We have been in BA for less than 8 hours and have already fallen for this place. We have passed by both the mansions and 'misery town', walked the cobbled streets, cruised the river, listened to the rhythm of the city and tasted just a little of what she has to offer. Tomorrow ... a full day city tour. We can't wait. 

 

 

Steps … 9,741 (pretty light on but we had a plane, car and boat!)

Kms … 7.46

Photos …  531 plus 75 by Ian (who is turning in to quite the photographer!)