Day 5 … the falls from the Argentinian side

Today we had an early start with a scheduled pick up for our day trip at 7.30 so the alarm was set for 6.30. I slept badly, spending most of the night awake, and when the alarm went I had just drifted off to sleep so I was a tad groggy at the start of the day. We dressed, headed to breakfast and then went straight to reception to wait for our pick up. 

Take a moment to enjoy the cakes that were available at breakfast! 

Our tour today was a group tour so we were part of a group of 14. Six Australians, one lady from Wales, five from Argentina, and two from France. Our guide today was Pamella from Brazil. We had a small mini bus to take us to the National Park and after doing the rounds of the hotels to collect everyone we were off.

The park opened at 8 am and we were fairly quick through the gates, but even so we were on the 8.40 Rainforest Ecological Train that would take us to the furthest point where we disembarked and began the first walk of the day, a 2.2 km round circuit to Devils Throat. Pamella spotted a toucan as we walked to the station and we also saw coati and an agouti.

The Rainforest Ecological Train helps to move visitors to the park around more efficiently. Not everyone uses it but it does cut down on a fair amount of walking!

The raised metal grated walkway took you out across the river and ended at the Devils Throat. This cascade is a U-shaped chasm. It receives approximately half of the river's flow, standing 82 meters high, 150 meters wide, and extending 700 meters in length.

When you reach the end of the walkway there is a series of platforms that allow you take in the sheer power of this fall. The sound of the water falling over the edge is deafening, the amount of water is incredible. The river at the moment is brown due to the recent rains which has resulted in the iron rich top soil being washed into the river. 

Ian stayed well back from the edge but was still able to take in the might of this waterfall. We had plenty of time to stop and enjoy … and to take photos … even though after a while you realise that no photo is ever going to do it justice. Then you head back to the train station walking the path in reverse … stopping to take photos of birds, insects, butterflies and countless river diversions along the way.

 

Back at the station we had some time to fill before the next train to depart so I spent the time trying to capture photos of the many beautiful butterflies that flitted around. Being spring it is high season for butterflies. Some stop and spread their wings wide, others keep their wings together to show their camouflage. They are difficult to photograph but delightful to watch.

 

On board the train we headed to the next station … Estacio Caratas. This is the station most closely located to the upper falls circuit, the lower falls circuit and the Gran Adventura (more about that later). After the requisite stop (today’s shared group tour had lots of these … stop for a drink, a toilet, a chance to buy souvenirs or have a cigarette) we were off to walk the Upper Circuit.

The walk begins near the Ecological Jungle Train’s Cataratas Station. From the start, you enjoy amazing views of the horseshoe-shaped falls. A series of viewing balconies leads you past Salto Dos Hermanas, Chico, Ramírez, Bossetti, Adán y Eva, and Bernabé Méndez, culminating at Salto Mbiguá.

Here, the walkways are again built above the edge of the falls, and so you have a dramatic view of the falls dropping. It is bizarre to stand at the top of a waterfall and look down. Past Salto Mbiguá, a bridge crosses the Upper Iguazú River, leading to the spectacular viewpoint at Salto San Martín—the second largest waterfall in the park.

The return path takes you into the rainforest, away from the falls but the river remains below you with small islands or rocks causing the river to split and follow its own path. I cannot quite get my head around the path of the river and how it diverts and winds its way around. It was quieter away from the falls but you can sense the power of what is to come as the water moves towards the edge.

 

It was then a break for lunch. We chose to keep it simple as we would be eating at the restaurant again from last night. So we shared some empanadas and had a cool drink. The group scattered but we sat with Peter (from Clifton Hill) and Jackie (from Wales). Lovely people … and a nice chance to chat about what we have seen, where we have been and where we plan to go!

Ian here for the afternoon shift. After lunch a short walk with the group over to Gran Avventura - our afternoon special. This included a 6km nature drive through the rainfirest with an Interpretive Guide followed by a boat ride into the falls. Correct - not just to see the falls but to ride into the base of the falls. Each bright yellow truck has room for 30 people and we were up the front with our guide Guadalupe. She was fantastic, switching between Spanish and English, pointing out birds and orchids, telling us a little history, some science and lots of nature. Coming on the back of last night's nature walk we are becoming well versed in the workings of the Atlantic rainforest ecosystem.

 

The instructional video at the pick up point had prepared us for the final leg. Off the truck, 300m of downward stairs, last stop for a bathroom, collect life jacket, collect wet bag, get on boat, remove shoes (water will be running ankle deep through the boat when we're in the falls), pack and seal wet bag. Then get ready.

The boat ride to the falls probably only lasted for 30 minutes, but you can pack a lot of screams and swallow a lot of water in that time. The ride upstream was 5-6 km, pushing against the strong flow. Gorgeous foliage and rocky cliff faces on either side with occasional little waterfalls. The closer we got the rougher the ride over rapids and huge swells. First into the narrow falls on the Brazilian side. Up close enough to take good photos looking 60m up but nothing more than a light spray. Then around to the horseshoe on theArgentine side to do the same thing. Then the signal - hold on tight, everything is about to get wet. Back off, drive straight in, back, in. Soaking spray, torrents of water pouring over the edge. You look up but the spray stings your eyes. At one stage we must have been no more than 10m from the point where the falling water meets the river below. LOUD. WET. AND SO MUCH FUN.

 

 

Sopping wet but all smiles we gave our boat captain Miguel a round of applause as we pulled back into dock. At which point we reversed everything from the way down - life jackets, ponchos, wet bags, shoes on, etc. And for Jacqui a quick look in the mirror to tidy up the smeared mascara. Our nature guide on the way back didn't have a lot to add to what we'd heard earlier. Pamella was there to meet us - counting her sheep back in - and gave us 10 minutes before final herding back on the bus. Guess what? You can walk to the little lighthouse atop the lower circuit and back in only 8 minutes!

 

Back to our lodge at 5pm - what a civilised time, most unlike us. So we booked for dinner, arranged a boxed breakfast as our morning pick up is before the restaurant opens for breakfast, and adjourned to the pool to write the blog ... re-adventuring another memorable day.

And so we end our day with another delicious dinner at our hotel. We shared aracini balls, a crispy chicken salad and cassava gnocchi bolognese.  All absolutely delicious!
 

And we are done for the day. Blog written and posted. Showers. Packed. Alarm on.

Buenos Aires here we come. 

Steps  ... 17,198

Kms ... 13.16

Photos ...  700 plus another 100+ from Ian