Day 10 ... oh our gloriously beautiful world
Today was our much anticipated glacier tour. When we began planning this adventure I casually threw into the conversation "what about Patagonia?". So we scoured the brochures and came up with some ideas. This day was one that we both thought looked great.
We were up early as we slept with the blinds open so that we could see the sunrise. Ian was up earlier to do some work whilst I snoozed on. The sunrise wasn't that spectacular anyway! Breakfast in the bistro and then we were ready to go.
We were met in the lobby by our guide Guadalupe and our driver Ricardo. Once again we were on a bus meant for probably 22 people and for the first part of the day it was just the four of us! Stellar service ... as it meant I had a front seat.
We travelled along Route 15 which took us out of El Calafate via the picturesque industrial estate ... but as we were leaving Guadalupe pointed out that the road from our hotel to the township used to be the runway for the airport! We travelled alongside the mountains. The road was gravel but in quite good condition. Ricardo was a wonderful driver ... slowing down to allow me to take photos.
Guadalupe was an excellent guide. She was so knowledgeable and was able to tell us so much about El Calafate, the surrounding area, the estancias (ranchs), National Park, roads, bridges, flora and fauna.
As we drove along we saw caracara, condor, skunks, hares, and rhea. We came across some gauchos (farmers) riding their horses whilst moving their cattle and a few extra horses along the road. Guadalupe said we were very lucky as you don't often see them on the roadways.
We crossed several bridges which spanned the flowing rivers. At one stage she suggested we jump out and walk across the bridge. She pointed out native plants ... some used for food, some for medical uses.
We arrived at our first stop for the day ... the Estancia Nibepo Aike, a former sheep farm turned cattle farm. At the ranch we had the chance to learn a little more about the history of the ranch, the sheep industry in Argentina, and the transition to cattle (they are less destructive to the ecosystem than sheep).
The guide at the ranch, Annalea, was a great presenter. Amusing, knowledgeable, a little cheeky. We watched a sheep shearing demonstration, saw a lamb fed by some excited young boys, and also bumped into our friend Peter whom we had met at Iguassu Falls.
Following the tour of the ranch we were treated to the most incredible lunch. Lamb, chorizo sausages, blood sausage (blech ... Ian dutifully tried it and said it was a No for him) and ribs roasted on open flames. The spread of salads that accompanied the meat was fresh (grown at the farm). Red wine and a sprite washed it all down. we had been seated at a table just with Guadalupe and Peter was sitting by himself ... so we hailed him over to join us. We ended our meal with caramel flan with Dulche de Leche and a lovely coffee for me.
Ian here. Heading off after lunch we were joined by a lovely young honeymooning Belgian couple who were part of our afternoon tour. We out-smootched them easily!
When the itinerary says a boat ride across the lake I imagined a launch chugging across a flat expanse of water, with panoramic backdrops. Well we had the last bit - ice-capped peaks - but I hadn't expected the other peak moments. Like the boat being a tiny little 17-seater that you step into through a narrow portal. Like the choppy waters and waves as we ploughed on into the wind. And the ICEBERGS! Chunks of ice that had sheared off the glacier and were just floating in the lake. Not just 1 or 2. 100 or 200 or 500 hundred more like. Some the size of a large suitcase. Some the size of a 3-storey town house, with 6-7 times that volume under the waterline. And all glistening glacial white and blue, bobbing in the water, blowing my little mind. What sort of day is this when a scene from Titanic doesn't even rate a mention!
The tour company we were booked with has a unique arrangement with the National Park authority that allows them to put passengers on land for a short walk through an isolated piece of forest only accessible by boat to a viewpoint of the Perito Moreno Glacier.
We were dropped on Coins Beach, so called because the stones on the beach are small, rounded and very flat. Then up to a small ridge with a snow-capped peak as a backdrop. Through a grove of trees where a woodpecker was demolishing one tender trunk. Past an evergreen that is winning the battle against cold, wind, water, borers and creatures. And back down to an iron-red boulder field with direct views to the glacier wall. Wow! The most delightful 30 minutes.
The next phase of our day was pretty simple - back on the boat, navigate the final 1km to the south face of the glacier through a maze of floating ice (thank you Captain Sergio and Crewman Evan), and nose in to the shadow of the glacier. To be honest we were probably about 150m from the face, but as the glacier is 40-60m high above the waterline it did feel like we were close and overshadowed. From that distance you can see the cracking on the ice walls, you can hear the internal creaking of million of tonnes of ice, and you are blinded by the purity of the blue. I know that sounds weird but there is something other-worldly about the blue of a glacier. We snapped away. We stared in awe. We felt insignificant. And infinitely happy. After 25-30 minutes we turned and left, just as three other large boats came to share what 4 of us had had to ourselves. So lucky. Oh, did I forget to mention we were served drinks chilled with a lump of glacial ice fished out of the lake. Bottoms up!
Very light snow started to fall about 5 minutes later as our boat team dropped us on a rocky beach below a small carpark. From there a short drive to the Visitor Centre - Cafe, shops, toilets, walking paths. Guadalupe took us to the First Balcony which had good views of the glacier’s north face, and recommended we do the red, yellow and a little of the blue paths. That's when things got fun.
We had a little over an hour to do the circuit. And the views were ok to start with, although a mist was obscuring the clarity of the glacier. Then the snow became light snow, sprinkling down. A little heavier, a real snowfall - which was pretty exciting for someone who has almost no such experience. Then it started dropping in big flakes. Pelting down. The trees were white. Jacqui's hair was crispy. The handrails had 1cm covering. A proper winter wonderland - in magical Patagonia.
Light snow continued to fall on the 1+ hour drive home, although in most places not heavy enough to leave a cover on the ground. For the first half of the drive the winding road clung to a steep cliff face above Lake Roca, a little reminiscent of Victoria's Great Ocean Road. From there it was straight and flat across the plain to Lake Argentino and then hugging the shore through to El Calafate. As we entered El Calafate Ricardo took us for a city tour ... with Guadalupe providing the commentary. A lovely way to end the day.
My favorite day…after the waterfall that is!
ReplyDeleteKooky and Kanga need a little snow gear! I don’t want to hear they’re tucked up with pneumonia.
ReplyDeleteOutstanding
ReplyDeleteAnd I think I'm learning more on your Blog than I did in school! I had no idea there were glaciers in South America! They are so blue they don't look real! Amazing! And that out smooched comment had me ROFLMAO! :)
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